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Adjustments
  • I have recently made some adjustments to the MGX, after careful heating of the perineum pressure point tab I adjusted the arm approx 4/5mm closer to the main body. This small adjustment for me has made an amazing difference, less effort required to move the sphincter, the sweet spot has finally started to become apparent, extra pressure is put on the prostate.
    One question I have as follows:
    From the start I wait approx 10 mines, as soon as I move the sphincter I get a tingling sensation, I try to capitalize on this with very small gentle movements, however after a while I loose the feeling so I draw on the sphincter a bit harder to realise the same effects and so on until all feelings are gone, at this point I remove the MGX re lube and start again, I am not sure how to move on from this point and get out of this circle.
  • B MayfieldB Mayfield
    Posts: 2,077
    Calibre,

    I posted on modifying the Aneros some time ago, (not sure if you saw it or not), it can be tricky, but if performed properly can increase the efficiency of the unit substantially. The part that's difficult is finding the precise adjustment that provides more pressure from the tab without creating a situation in which the tab is so far forward that the Aneros won't insert completely. I'm glad to hear that you got it right. (My modified MGX is my favorite !)

    With respect to your concerns about not moving forward, check out my thread in BEE LINE regarding generating arousal if you've not already done so. In a nutshell you need to mix it up a bit, with some different varieties and magnitudes of contractions, combo anal/rectal for instance in combination with some rhythmic breathing can produce some very interesting results. If you upgrade contractions to moderate level or stronger, once you release them, remember to come back to a base level contraction. Stay on the base level for a minute or so and be observant of any sensations that arise from that release. Sometimes the most productive sensations come from the release, as opposed to the contraction. I know it seems somewhat counterintuitive, after all, when you contract, sensation (of some kind) is percieved immediately. But the release of the contraction is just as important as the contraction itself, as it represents a change in the flow of sensory energy. However, be aware that the perception of these secondary sensations may take a couple of seconds to occur. Many people simply move on to another contraction, without giving this secondary event any time to develop. So give it time, check it out and be aware that this doesn't occur for everybody everytime, but it's just another thing that you need to be aware of and be open to. In some cases one can kick start involuntaries by means of holding a moderate followed by the return to the base. The key is being patient and observant. Play with it, explore, and above all have fun.

    B Mayfield
  • Edit
    Posts: 0
    *(&(*&&_&*_&& well, I tried a little adjustment on mine, bent it in slightly. then noticed it was off centre a bit, tried to re-align it and )((*^^)*&**__*(* BROKE IT.!!!!!!! and the store is closed where I can get another one, have to wait until tomorrow, drat.!!!!!lol...
  • B MayfieldB Mayfield
    Posts: 2,077
    Geezer,



    Perhaps all is not lost. Believe it or not, the VERY SAME thing happened to me, and ironically it ended with me making the adjustment that created the perfect MGX. In this case, for me at least, an accident was the mother of invention . Yes, after toying with the abutment (heating and reheating it, and bending it with a heat gun) it snapped off. The break occurred about an inch under the tab itself. THE FOLLOWING SHOULD ONLY BE ATTEMPTED BY A USER WHO IS VERY GOOD WITH HIS HANDS. IF YOU ARE NOT…JUST REPLACE THE ANEROS ALTOGETHER.

    In a nutshell what I did was to get both sides of the break almost liquid. Accomplishing this is not too hard but you must have a steady hand, and once the material becomes liquid you must work VERY quickly. Fortunately the plastic material that the device is composed of bonds exceptionally well to itself and you’ll find that the material at the joint, once cooled, is as hard as anywhere else. The unfortunate part of it is that the only thing that will get the plastic hot enough to melt…is a flame.

    How did I do it? I’ve been reluctant to discuss it in the past, but the fact is I did it over the (gas) stove. I used locking pliers (vise grips) on each end so as not to get my hands close to the heat. (If you clamp down the pliers of the body of the unit be certain to use a small amount of some material like a piece of a sponge on the teeth of the pliers so it won’t mar the surface of the Aneros. While heating remember, the idea is not to burn the plastic but to make it so hot that it melts…. kind of like roasting a marshmallow. If it does begin to burn blow it out immediately. If at all possible you should be heating both ends at the same time so that once they melt you may join them together. Once both ends are liquid, release the pliers from the main body end, that part you may now hold in your hand. Now join the tab end to the upright piece on the main body, push them together until a small round blob is created. Wait about 15 seconds. Lay the main body end of the now joined unit down on a hard surface (I was in my kitchen at the time) this will free one hand for molding the joint. Now using your fingers (yes I said fingers…have a bowl of ice water near by for cooling and never keep your fingers on the hot plastic but for a fraction of a second…almost like you’re quickly pinching and releasing) form the joint together. Once you’ve formed it into somewhat of a bulging joint, lay the pliers down release them from the tab end. While it’s still malleable you must do two things. First set the alignment of the tab. As you look at the backside of the tab (the part that faces away from your body) you should see the center of the tab line up with the center of the main body of the Aneros in front of it. Second, (and this is the tricky part), you must set the forward angle (overhang) of the tab…. this will determine how much pressure the tab brings to bear on your perineum. VERY IMPORTANT! If you angle the tab too far forwards it will not insert properly, so don’t over do it. I found that I could use the ribs on the body and end of the tab as reference points. The overhang on my unit is between six and seven ribs (I've stated 5 and 6 in the past, but since re-examined it) from the base (just eyeball a straight line from the end of the tab down to the ribs). Third, be sure to go back and realign the tab in the center (it may have moved during the process of angle adjustment). One last check of overhang and you’re ready to let it cool.

    After letting the Aneros cool completely you’re ready for testing. Again, what you’re after is slightly more and perhaps lower perineal contact, with the complete insertion of the unit. And by complete insertion I mean that you contractions should be able to draw the Aneros in completely. If the tab has been projected too far forwards then you will not get sufficient prostate contact.


    I know for some this sounds pretty tricky… and in truth it is. But if you observe the precautions CAREFULLY that I’ve outlined it will give you a shot with what is at this point a broken unit.

    Good Luck

    B Mayfield

    P.S. Once this joint has been made you will be able to go back to using a heat gun for adjustments. Also release this fix won’t look pretty (the plastic will look discolored and the tab bulges in the arm where you joined it)…. but if it works as well as mine does, you won’t care one single bit, believe me.

    For some further info. on this you can check out my Keys to the Backdoor Revisited thread, see the post entitled Aneros Modification 1/19/04
  • B MayfieldB Mayfield
    Posts: 2,077
    TO ALL WHO HAVE READ MY LAST POST,

    I want to make clear that these modications have NOT been suggested nor endorsed by the manufacturer in any way. This is a total aftermarket modication if there ever was one. The truth is that, I myself am not endorsing this for everyone either or suggesting that everybody that breaks an abutment tab try this. The previous post details what I did...so I guess I'm saying try it at your own risk.

    Also it is important to note that the unit that I performed this modification on was a MGX Classic model. This model comes with a longer abutment tab to begin with, and has two nodules or bumps on the tip of the main body of the unit (the new style MGX is smooth). If you are making this same modification on a new style MGX, to maintain the same distance from the anus one may have to rock the head of the abutment tab back while pushing the arm itself forward. Why? Because if the tab has broken off, melting and joining the tab and arm pieces will have the effect of shortening the overall length which must be accounted for.

    Mayfield
  • Thank you Brian for your advise and input, I have tried to follow your example and having better results, I am getting to the point close to where the prostate wants to release, however I am stuck at that point, perhaps I need to exercise the breathing techniques to move forward from here.
    Regarding the adjustments, I used a heat gun and adjusted the arm a little at a time, measuring the change from a point of reference so I now how much to adjust back had this adjustment failed to please.

    One other point of interest is that the Aneros is well designed to be very discreate, thanks to the designer.
  • Edit
    Posts: 0
    Thanks "B" for the help, have repaired it and on the way to try out, had already purchased a replacement but the store only had the shorter model, the salesgirl was told by supplier that this was the big model, so she is going to put them straight.
    However, does not hurt to have a spare...
  • big_O
    Posts: 44
    I think I mentioned in an earlier post how I had the MGX many months ago, and became frustrated with it and threw it away. What a mistake that was! After finally being able to orgasm with the SGX & Classic models, I decided to order another MGX and this time I wasn't disappointed. In fact, to my amazement and utter delight, the pleasures produced by the MGX are even more intense than the Classic, at least for me.

    So, now I have a plan : ) to alter my Classic to have an abutment tab similar to the MGX. I have already done \"surgery\" on the SGX (removing its tab) and removed the original tab on the Classic. I checked the position of the SGX tab as it would be on the Classic if my \"transplant\" works, and it would be almost identical to the MGX tab's position. Of course, now I have to \"weld\" the old SGX tab to the Classic which isn't going to be easy, but B. Mayfield's info will be a big help. I'm hoping, however, to use my soldering iron to join the pieces as that would be a lot easier (& safer) than working with open flame. First, of course, I have to find my soldering iron though : )

    If this all works out, I'll post here and let you know if the modified Classic can then approach the incredible ecstasy produced by the MGX. The results with the MGX are the only reason I'm willing to sacrifice the SGX & Classic if it doesn't work, as the MGX proved to be just incredible.
  • calibre
    Posts: 60
    Further to my original post on this subject I have made further adjustments. I have finaly come to the conclusion that for me I need the perinium tab to be fairly close to the main body.This applies a more constant pressure to the tip of the MGX.
    When I first made this adjustment my perinium became sore due to the extra pressure, this soreness soon cleared, perinium has become acustomed to the extra pressure and any lube in that area around the tab has no effect on the working of the MGX.
    I highly recommend making minor adjustments to suit your own needs.
  • big_O
    Posts: 44
    Well, I finally got around to doing the \"transplant\" of the SGX tab to the Classic. The procedure itself turned out to be very simple...I used a soldering iron (the pencil design) and just \"welded\" (i.e. the Classic abutment \"stem\" to the tab from the SGX) by applying the soldering iron at several points around the joint of the 2 pieces. The resulting weld is ugly but seems very strong.

    The now \"Frankenstein\" : ) Classic gave incredible results in my first time using it. Its hard to objectively compare it to the MGX, but I think it is now even more intense. I had my first orgasm with the modified Classic about 5 minutes after insertion which is quicker than normal for me, but it was a relatively small one and only a precursor of things to come. From there on things got very intense with about 3 incredible orgasms over the next 30-40 minutes and several smaller ones.