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Progasm Mod
  • BlueStone
    Posts: 20
    I ordered my Progasm, and wow, it's really big.

    Right out of the package, just like the helix, it has a semi-gloss finish. When I first got my helix, it felt like it was 'sticking' during use, and even when lubing it up prior to use, it didn't feel very smooth.

    Call me anal-retentive , but just like I did with my helix, I took some 2000 grit finishing sand paper and lightly sanded the entire thing. Then took one of my wife's nail finishing boards and buffed it out to a dang-near gloss finish.

    As with my helix, a gloss finish makes the Progasm much more mobile, and it was completely worth the effort.

    Of course, I couldn't stop myself there. On my classic, mgx, and helix, I've cut off the handle, which to me is an enormous improvement in responsiveness to light contractions. I did this to the Progasm, just before it turns the corner & becomes the K-tab, which didn't do much for me.

    I now have an extremely mobile & responsive Progasm. I never thought that size of aneros would be comfortable for long sessions, but I'm now a convert. Darwin described it perfectly in his "Breakthrough". "Deep, amazing unbelievably good feeling penetration." Bingo, JFC, and holy shit, all in the same trembling breath.

    My MGX and Helix have been rendered totally irrelevant, and will be used for experimental modifications. I'll keep my classic for the nostalgia & the nodules.

    Since 2000 and 12000 grit sandpaper isn't commonly available, here's a link:
    http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supplies/Abrasives,_polishes,_buffers.html

    BTW Darwin, that was an AMAZINGLY insightful post, one of the best I've seen since this forum started. Thanks for taking the time.
  • darwindarwin
    Posts: 1,196
    thanks dude. i'm gonna try your gloss mod.

    i assume the 12000 is equal to the finishing board, right?.

    not being too familiar with finishing, is there anything unobvious in how to wield the papers?

    also, had a thought: wouldn't a lucite aneros be way cool?

    (i assume lucite is super smooth)

    btw, to check out a really nice lucite manual prostate/g-spot stimulator, google "Crystal Wand Deluxe".

    darwin
  • anonymous
    Posts: 72
    I am going to try sanding/buffing the Progasm as you suggested. I didn't think of that one, but it completely makes sense, because Program doesn't seem to have a glossy sheen to it. I would think that anything that reduces the friction, the better. I'll post my thoughts on it after I do it.

    I used a hacksaw and cut off the "shield" that extends from the base of the Progasm, and then filed/sanded it down. To me it served no useful purpose, and wouldn't allow you to comfortably sit with it in. Since I have done this, I am much happier that I can sit without a chair forcing it up into me.

  • anonymous
    Posts: 72
    (this post was edited 2007-04-04 19:25:04)

    I did the mod, using 1500 grit sandpaper from the hardware store, then buffing it using a fingernail buffer as described. All I can say, this mod rocks. I would recommend it to anyone with the Prograsm. It "dances" inside you against your prostate and feels way better and comfortable when it is smoother like this. My only issue is I can't believe I didn't think of it first.

    Actually I would recommend the makers of Aneros to come up with a buffing process, because I feel like I could get it even glossier. Maybe I need to get the 2000 grit sandpaper. Anyone else an expert on buffing a material like this?
  • BlueStone
    Posts: 20

    Originally Posted By: darwin
    i assume the 12000 is equal to the finishing board, right?.

    not being too familiar with finishing, is there anything unobvious in how to wield the papers?

    also, had a thought: wouldn't a lucite aneros be way cool?

    (i assume lucite is super smooth)

    btw, to check out a really nice lucite manual prostate/g-spot stimulator, google \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\"Crystal Wand Deluxe\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\".

    darwin


    Darwin,

    Correct. The 12,000 grit is the finishing board. The only learning curve I had on the process was that the sandpaper or finishing board doesn't last long, so get some extra and check it regularly and replace it when it wears down. I cut the paper in to 2" x 4" pieces. Light pressure only, like you're using it on your fingernails, and just take your time. The FDA plastic is similar to a fingernail in hardness and how it responds to sandpaper.

    I bought a single sheet of the 2000 grit, and used about half of it on the progasm. I bought 5 finshing boards and went thru 2 of them.

    I think lucite or something with equal gloss would be great. I don't want to be too picky, but I was thinking that for $67, our buddies at High Island would take the time to buff these out better before shipping. I'm sure there's a fair amount of post-production sanding going on anyway.

    I forgot to mention that I hand-rubbed it for awhile afterward with a dry cotton cloth which appeared to buff it out even more.

    Originally Posted By: anonymous
    I used a hacksaw and cut off the "shield" that extends from the base of the Progasm, and then filed/sanded it down.

    Maybe I need to get the 2000 grit sandpaper. Anyone else an expert on buffing a material like this?



    I also cut off the shield. I couldn't see a use for it aside for advertising. The link I posted above has 2000 and 12000 grit paper available.

    My 1st experiment in buffing this was with a buffing wheel on a dremel tool. Way too high RPM, and I burnt the plastic immediately.

  • Edit
    Posts: 0
    That's a good idea, I think I'll be sanding and buffing my Helix tomorrow or so.

    Though, how does cutting off the handle help? You said it increases the responsiveness with light contractions. How is that? Just a little bit of weight removed helps that much?
  • anonymous
    Posts: 72
    I ordered the same sandpaper and finishing boards as BlueStone has recommended, and we'll see how that goes. I got pretty good results using 1500 grit and a "3 stage" fingernail buffer, but now I want super super glossy after feeling how much greater it is when smoother. I used it again last night, and all I can say is wow. Will post results when finished.
  • BlueStone
    Posts: 20
    (this post was edited 2007-04-07 05:46:19)

    Originally Posted By: GoodIdea
    That's a good idea, I think I'll be sanding and buffing my Helix tomorrow or so.

    Though, how does cutting off the handle help? You said it increases the responsiveness with light contractions. How is that? Just a little bit of weight removed helps that much?


    Cutting the handle off won't reduce the weight to any significant degree.

    Without the handle, there is no spring resistance against the forward tilt of the aneros when you make a contraction. Because of that, a lighter contraction is possible because you're not 'fighting' it as much. Also, there is no spring to draw the business end back when you release the contraction. These are felt as very subtle changes.

    On my classic, mgx, and helix, I cut the handles off all the way up to the shaft, so there's no protrusion, and the aneros looks like a "J". Aside from the (in my opinion) better responsiveness, the handle is not there to interfere when lying on my back.

    With the Progasm, it penetrates noticeably deeper without the K-tab. I wrestled with potentially ruining a $67 unit, but I'm very happy with the result.

    These are purely my opinions, YMMV. As far as I'm concerned, these are very expensive pieces of plastic. Every time I take a hacksaw to one of these, I'm fully prepared to either buy a new one or do without.

    Edit:
    OK, I'm going totally overboard here, but...

    I ordered the "Micro-Mesh Soft Touch Finishing Pads" from the link below - http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supplies/Abrasives,_polishes,_buffers/Micro-Mesh_Soft_Touch_Finishing_Pads.html.

    These pads give you progressively finer finishing grades from 2400, 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000 to 12000-grit. They suggest wet sanding, which won't clog the sandpaper, and it makes it last longer.

    I just tried this on the base of the Prograsm wet sanding with all 7 grits. The area I finished with this process is now like glass. Now I just need about an hour to finish the rest of it undisturbed. It may not move any better than with the dang-near gloss I described earlier, but I'll rest assured that I couldn't have gotten it any smoother.

  • anonymous
    Posts: 72
    (this post was edited 2007-04-07 13:12:33)

    I am like you, where I won't rest until I know I've gotten it as glossy as possible, so I have also ordered the 7 micro-mesh finishing pads so I can rest easier knowing I got it was glossy as possible, and make it the most responsive and comfortable it could possibly be.

    All I've done so far is used 1500 grit and the fingernail buffer which has made a world of difference. I can't wait to get the other materials to get a "glass like" finish.
  • darwindarwin
    Posts: 1,196
    count me in... i ordered the 2000 grit paper and the set of 7 pads.

    darwin
  • Edit
    Posts: 0
    I got my Progasm by mail on Saturday, in what I thought was incredibly fast shipping time, especially since I live in a small town. I haven't felt the need to go through a complicated buffing routine, but I do have one suggestion for the manufacturer: Do something about the glue that fixed the aneros to the shipping card. It took me an hour of scraping, hot water soaking, dribbling GOOGONE fluid to get the residue--which was about three times what was needed--off of the aneros. I wasn't about to stick something like that inside me till I could at least feel that the residue was gone. Otherwise, a great product!
  • hlaser99hlaser99
    Posts: 785
    Hey Guys!

    It is funny that some of my units are very smooth and some are not...

    Maybe the production process has changed a little over the years???

    I do agree, however, that my Progasm could be a little slicker for more movement. I may try your method. (anyone try steel wool or some polish or other???)

    Oh well, sounds like you have your own R&D going??? LOL! Keep up the good work, Guys! Communication is Great!

    Later, Hlaser
  • darwindarwin
    Posts: 1,196
    about the packaging glue on the progasm: i had the same experience. had to resort to Goof Off. I mentioned this as a "negative" in my original Progasm review.

    about steel wool: i don't think that would work. this mod depends on very fine grain buffing, up to grade 12000. steel wool is much coarser than that (i think super fine, ie 0000, is equal to 220 sandpaper)

    darwin
  • anonymous
    Posts: 72
    As Bluestone did, I also cut off (and obviously sanded down) the K tab on my Prograsm. I debated and debated, but I am glad I did. It put the focus more on the prostate, and makes the orgasms stronger in my opinion. But I will say the K tab had intriguing sensations. But if I had to do it all over, I'd still cut off the K tab.

  • Pan
    Posts: 249
    I just wanna say thanks to BlueStone for starting this thread!

    I managed to give my new Eupho a beautiful, glossy shine using only a 2 stage fingernail buffer and little elbow grease. When I test drove it afterwards, the results were simply amazing! It's so slick and mobile now, it almost has mind of it's own!

    I ordered a couple sheets of the 2000 grade paper from the website you linked and plan to do my Progasm next. Who knows, maybe I'll even take off the K-Tab while I'm at it...

    Thanks again for sharing such a great idea with the Forum!

    Pan
  • hlaser99hlaser99
    Posts: 785
    (this post was edited 2007-04-10 08:23:43)

    OK Guys!

    Count me in too!

    I was happy to see that the site is for Guitar Luthiers! I now have another source for these specialty supplies too!

    I am, and have been, a guitar enthusiast for most of my life. (since highschool and the fond memories I have of our Rock N' Roll group and the special times we had way back when!) Now I am older and slower and play mostly blues and soft stuff???

    Any way, thanks for the "Mod" and for the new site!

    Later, Hlaser

  • darwindarwin
    Posts: 1,196
    (this post was edited 2007-04-10 09:13:53)

    Originally Posted By: Pan
    I just wanna say thanks to BlueStone for starting this thread!

    I managed to give my new Eupho a beautiful, glossy shine using only a 2 stage fingernail buffer and little elbow grease. When I test drove it afterwards, the results were simply amazing! It's so slick and mobile now, it almost has mind of it's own!

    I ordered a couple sheets of the 2000 grade paper from the website you linked and plan to do my Progasm next. Who knows, maybe I'll even take off the K-Tab while I'm at it...

    Thanks again for sharing such a great idea with the Forum!

    Pan


    question: did you gloss the neck?

    i'm wondering what the pros and cons of that are.

    this goes directly to the question of what the design intention of the next gen neck are.

    on the first gen designs, the neck is ribbed, presumably for gripping (or is it for stimulation?)

    with the eupho, is it supposed to slide maximally in there or is gripping desirable to augment the power of the motion?

    i know the neck is an hourglass shape. as somebody pointed out, it is possible that the increasing girth at the extremities is what drives the unit. (ie, the sphincter dilates a little at the extremities, forcing increasing grip there).

    i guess the proof is in the pudding:
    - did the increased mobility translate into improved feelings and arousal response?
    - how about in the anus?

    darwin
  • hlaser99hlaser99
    Posts: 785
    Hi All!

    My SGX & MGX both have the "speed bumps" towards the end of the neck, but I don't know if this is good or bad...I just like it that way, I guess???

    I intend to make my Progasm slick all the way down the neck and stop there! And I think the rough finish on the balls should be good for traction.

    Also I use the "K" tab as a "P" tab, when I turn it around 180 degrees, so I will not be cutting anything off! I still use it backwards at least as often as forwards...

    My 2 cents...

    Later, Hlaser
  • Pan
    Posts: 249
    Hi Guys,

    yes I did gloss the neck as well.

    Thanks for reminding me, because I *would* suggest leaving the neck unglossed for better traction.

    I wouldn't say that glossing the neck "ruined" my Eupho in any way. It just made it a tad more difficult to grip and move with my sphincter.

    However, the incredible increase in mobility and stimulation of my prostate, more than makes up for it. Of course, in hindsight, if there was some way I could "ungloss" the neck, I would. But fortunately, the Eupho is so incredibly thin and mobile to begin with, that the slightest contractions can still produce some wild results. I suppose glossing the neck on a model like the Helix might pose more of a problem?

    As for whether the increased mobility translated into increased arousal and response? My answer is:

    OMG YES! It's so slick and smooth, it reminds me of the first time I masturbated with Astroglide. After that, "dry jerking" was almost unthinkable! It's the same with this Mod. Once I felt the difference, I knew there was just no going back. I simply MUST do this to ALL of my Aneros models. LOL.

    Oh and as a final thought, I have to mention after seeing it recommended in another thread somewhere, I decided to try a new lubricant called "Boy Butter." All I can say is WOW! It's incredibly slippery like a silicone lube, but washes off just like a water-based lube. Plus no more need to inject lube into the rectum ahead of time.

    So as if the new mod isn't amazing enough, try combining it with Boy Butter and look out!

    Enjoy!

    Pan
  • anonymous
    Posts: 72

    Originally Posted By: Pan

    OMG YES! It's so slick and smooth, it reminds me of the first time I masturbated with Astroglide. After that, "dry jerking" was almost unthinkable! It's the same with this Mod. Once I felt the difference, I knew there was just no going back. I simply MUST do this to ALL of my Aneros models. LOL.


    If you think masturbation with Astroglide is great, you really need to try ID cream if you haven't. To me, it's easily the best thing you can put on your hand and masturbate with. Hands down. Honestly, it feels better than a fleshlight, and almost (but obviously not quite) on par with a blowjob.

    http://www.idlube.com/cream/cream.php
  • Pan
    Posts: 249
    Well, actually I was just using Astroglide as an example because I can remember a time when there seemed to be only two lubes on the market - KY Jelly and Astroglide. And everybody knew Astroglide was the one to jerk off with. LOL.

    But I outgrew Astroglide and have since decided to see other lubricants.

    ;-)

    Anyway, haven't tried ID Cream specifically, but thanks for the tip.
  • anonymous
    Posts: 72
    I could see where you were going. But to reiterate, when you have the ID cream on your hand, your fingers will almost feel like tongues. I am not exaggerating. And it doesn't really dry out, so you don't have to constantly reapply. I'd compare it to vasoline, but 5 times better. It's not too bad to cleanup either, for something that is oil based.

    Combine that with the Aneros, and lookout...
  • darwindarwin
    Posts: 1,196

    Originally Posted By: Pan
    Hi Guys,

    yes I did gloss the neck as well.

    Thanks for reminding me, because I *would* suggest leaving the neck unglossed for better traction.

    I wouldn't say that glossing the neck \\\\\\\"ruined\\\\\\\" my Eupho in any way. It just made it a tad more difficult to grip and move with my sphincter.

    However, the incredible increase in mobility and stimulation of my prostate, more than makes up for it. Of course, in hindsight, if there was some way I could \\\\\\\"ungloss\\\\\\\" the neck, I would. But fortunately, the Eupho is so incredibly thin and mobile to begin with, that the slightest contractions can still produce some wild results. I suppose glossing the neck on a model like the Helix might pose more of a problem?

    As for whether the increased mobility translated into increased arousal and response? My answer is:

    OMG YES! It's so slick and smooth, it reminds me of the first time I masturbated with Astroglide. After that, \\\\\\\"dry jerking\\\\\\\" was almost unthinkable! It's the same with this Mod. Once I felt the difference, I knew there was just no going back. I simply MUST do this to ALL of my Aneros models. LOL.

    Oh and as a final thought, I have to mention after seeing it recommended in another thread somewhere, I decided to try a new lubricant called \\\\\\\"Boy Butter.\\\\\\\" All I can say is WOW! It's incredibly slippery like a silicone lube, but washes off just like a water-based lube. Plus no more need to inject lube into the rectum ahead of time.

    So as if the new mod isn't amazing enough, try combining it with Boy Butter and look out!

    Enjoy!

    Pan


    i took receipt of my 2000 and 7-pack tonight.

    i applied them to the helix and eupho (but not their necks).

    i must say, i was expecting a higher gloss. i could feel that it was smoother, but not conspicuously, and visually they were unchanged.

    pan, did you actually get a gloss?

    what i did:
    - cut the 2000 into 2x4 inch squares. sanded for about 3 minutes, using up two of the squares.
    - wet the 2400 with soapy water. sanded/buffed for a couple of minutes
    - and on down the line to the 12000

    so, how did they perform?

    see my post in My Best Super-O, that's how.

    darwin
  • BlueStone
    Posts: 20
    I'm glad to see that folks are getting positive results on this. BTW, I'm not affiliated with Stewart McDonald in any way...

    I ended up spending about 30 minutes Saturday sanding/buffing my Progasm with the micro-mesh pads, starting with the 2400 grit. Used just a few drops of soap in the solution, and took my time. After I got to 12000, all the 'easy' areas to polish were glossy. There were areas that didn't polish up as well, and I went back over them starting back with the 2400 and working my way back up to 12000. I polished the entire thing except for the p-tab/ball.

    I ended up using a fair amount of pressure, to the point where my hands hurt the next day.

    Took it for a test drive Sunday night & though I can't say it was appreciably better than the first time I polished it, I'm very happy with the results.

    Pan,
    If you want to take the gloss back off the neck, just use the 2000 grit again where you want to rough up the finish, and that should take the polish off sufficiently.

  • Pan
    Posts: 249

    Originally Posted By: darwin


    i took receipt of my 2000 and 7-pack tonight.

    i applied them to the helix and eupho (but not their necks).

    i must say, i was expecting a higher gloss. i could feel that it was smoother, but not conspicuously, and visually they were unchanged.

    pan, did you actually get a gloss?

    darwin


    Hi darwin!

    yes, I did get a significant gloss compared to the previous look and feel before I buffed it.

    When I received my Eupho, I have to admit, it had the worst surface condition of all the models I've gotten. It had a couple specifically rough patches, and I could even feel the molding seem along it's centerline.

    After reading through this thread a bit, my glance just happened to fall on my wife's "EzFlow Pro Shine 2-Step Nail Shine" buffer. So I grabbed it and spent the next 90 minutes or so buffing away, until it was completely smooth, free of rough patches and molding seem, and had nice glossy sheen to it.

    I have since ordered a couple of the 2000 grade sheets from the website BlueStone provided and plan to do my Progasm with the 2000 first, and then finish it off with a couple more of those EzFlow buffers (my wife says they cost around $3-4 each at Long's Drugstore) since it worked so well on my Eupho.

    I'm not sure how much an actual glossy appearance matters. Maybe BlueStone will chime in here? But for me, it definitely seemed to coincide with the increase in smoothness and mobility.

    Hope this helps man!

    Pan
  • Pan
    Posts: 249

    Originally Posted By: BlueStone


    Pan,
    If you want to take the gloss back off the neck, just use the 2000 grit again where you want to rough up the finish, and that should take the polish off sufficiently.


    Thanks again BlueStone!

    I'm expecting the sheets to arrive within a few days and I will definitely give it a try.

    Pan
  • B MayfieldB Mayfield
    Posts: 2,077
    Pan and all,

    I've been reading this thread with interest over the past week. Just as a side note, it's no accident that the finish of the Aneros is of a matte type, actually it is by design. The concept is that a surface with a small amount of texture serves as a better foundation for a lubricant to adhere to . The idea is that a smoother surface would allow most of the lubrication to be removed by the anus, almost like a squeegee, as it passes through the anal canal. In my opinion, if this was ever true, such an effect would be obviated by prelubrication, which is a fairly typical procedure for most users these days. Under these circumstances, a smoother lubricated surface would seem to be the way to go. Keep us posted.

    BF Mayfield
  • gourdy
    Posts: 20
    The gloss mod was a good one! thx for the advise.


    BTW if you want to "ungloss" the speedbumps, just get some coarser sandpaper and go at it. Id recommend buffing it up to 4000.

    The aneros itself seems like it comes buffed to about a 4000 grit level, right out of the package. I used several grit sheets from 2000 up to 12000 and at 4000 it was almost the same as being fresh out of the box.


    These guys definitely need to be sanding the units to a gloss before shipping them out! Its a really nice upgrade imho.

    I did an SGX with the bumps and a helix in about 1 1/2 hrs going through about 6 grits of paper.
  • darwindarwin
    Posts: 1,196
    did anyone besides me use wet sanding?

    geez, an hour and a half?? it took me about 20 min to do the eupho and 15 to do the helix.

    i just felt like nothing was changing.

    but, maybe i don't know much about buffing and as a result didn't get the shine the rest of you all did. maybe i'll go at it again.

    by the way, all this work leads me to the question: how to store our shiny friends? used to be i just stored the whole gang, including syringe and lube in a tupperware, co-mingling. but now i'm thinking each one needs its own baby sock or something.

    darwin
  • BlueStone
    Posts: 20
    Wet sanding is the only way to go. The sanding surface will last much longer that way, particularly with the 12000 grit.

    At the end of the day, I think sanding & polishing helps a LOT, but going for a total gloss finish (for me, anyway) just indulges my OCD. And now that my Progasm is all glossed up, I'll go back to my Classic & do the same to it, now that I've invested the $15 in sanding/polishing supplies.

    I also think the occasional touch-up is a necessity, so I bought a few spares.

    On to storage....
    I store them in the same container, so they're only in contact with one another. Taking it to the extreme, I was thinking of a nicely cushioned box with a hinged lid, much like a humidor with separate compartments for each, maybe with a nice crushed velvet, say, purple... I wouldn't go as far as to customize each compartment's size for the particular device, but the choice of wood would be important. Mahogany or cherry would be nice, and I'd use my sanding supplies to provide a nice finish. Stew Mac also sells a fine variety of wood finishes, but my preference would be polyurethane. Gloss, of course. :0)

    But seriously, my primary storage objective is to put them where my kids won't find them. Socks are good. The lube stays in my wife's toy bag.
  • gourdy
    Posts: 20
    Blue Stone, you take your pleasure seriously!


    Cherry Oak storage box. :)


    Im just gonna keep mine in my little box with lube and gloves. I can touch em up if need be, and i doubt they will need it too much anyway.
  • hlaser99hlaser99
    Posts: 785
    Hi ALL!

    Recieved my supplies yesterday and went for the Progasm first, it has the kind of dull finish!

    Spent about a half hour on it, test drove it and it WAS more mobile! I plan to do another half hour or so on it to see if I can make it really move!

    Let you know!

    Later, Hlaser
  • mu1ti
    Posts: 61
    Just received my progasm! Wow, can't wait to try it.

    I gave it 5 minutes with 2000 grit wet/dry paper then turned the paper over and buffed it with the back of the sheet (itself a mild abrasive). I then buffed the head with some car paint type polish (t-cut in the uk) to get a nice gloss and washed it again (not saying this was right but I'm happy with the results).

    I read the post by B Mayfield above about the idea of a matt finish being better at retaining lube but I have to say that's not my personal experience and have often felt a bit glued to my other models after a while but since buffing them last week they move great and give better feelings (and a few nice Os too :)

    Anyhoo looking forward to the first test drive!
  • Edit
    Posts: 0
    Very interesting comments about buffing up the massagers. I enquired about this from HIH and they informed me that the matte finish is by design to help hold the lubricant. I had tried polishing my massager, finishing off with sodium bicarbonate to get a super high gloss. It feels sumptuously smooth at first, but after a short time I found that the lubricant does indeed seep away.

    Someone mentioned Boy Butter, but I'm a bit concerned about its ingredients, especially for use in the rear end.

    The absolute last word for the most blissful masturbation experience is Aura Cacia Exotic Massage Butter. Apply it liberally from your thighs to your nipples and enjoy your penis and your whole body for hours on end of sheer ecstasy.

    Although the label says external use only, Aura Cacia Exotic Massage Butter has all natural ingredients and is therefore probably safe to use with the Aneros also.
  • Old WolfOld Wolf
    Posts: 114
    Thanks for this thread BlueStone, I have now polished my Helix and Progasm, but not the necks (thanks again!).

    Not having access (read 'couldn't be arsed, I wanted to get started right away') to more specialised abrasives I went with 2 nail buffers, the multi grade type on a soft polystyrene (styrofoam in the US) block. I removed the coarse nail-edge side before I started. (I didn't want a careless slip to undo all my hard work.) I sliced the finest side with 1/4" of foam from one of the blocks to get around the curves.
    By the time I'd finished ('finished', lol, it's an ongoing project...) I got involuntaries and a half mast hard-on just from handling the Progasm!

    (The strangest thing, with the head of the Progasm being so glans-like I suddenly got an urge to suck on it. So I did. A real deep throat job right down to the t-bar and worked my soft-palate, back of throat and tongue around the head. Oh, well, I've always known I'm bi-sexual. I've just never done anything about it...)

    Wow! What a difference. In use the Progasm now dances around like a belly-dancer on speed and its new responsiveness really drives me wild. I had, actually, given it a rest for a week but since polishing it I alternate it with the Helix during every session. (read nightly, lol)
    Maybe Aneros should offer the gloss finish for a (small!!) premium.

    WRT B Mayfield's observation that the texture is 'designed in' to retain lubricant, all I can say is that it's a good job automotive engineers don't subscribe to the same theory. "Yes Sir, this new (insert brand name here) SUV has specially textured crankshaft journals and shell bearings better to retain lubricant under load..."
    No disrespect BM, I note that you don't seem to subscribe to the theory yourself.

    I haven't removed the K tab from the Progasm, nor will I. Its contact sends shivers, tingles and a charge up my spine and though to my abdomen as soon as I put it in, and is one of the many things that makes a Progasm experience so different from that of a Helix (my only other Aneros). I have removed all traces of the tab that extends above the tab bar of the Progasm. No difference in action but improves the lines no end and makes it look somehow leaner & more 'purposeful'. I have, however, removed the curly handle from the Helix, and I'm glad I did. With an extra gentle push the Helix changes angle inside and squeezes the prostate against the P-tab in a different, electrifying way.

    Cherry-wood polyurethane-polished box? I'd thought more along the lines of a discreet (gunmetal or white? White I think, like half a 12" Apple iBook) snap close case with custom cut-outs like for a photographer's cameras and lenses or a sniper's break-down rifle. ;-) In the meantime I use drawstring sunglasses pouches to keep them protected and clean. They'll suffice 'cos I'm not likely to do the above any time soon.

    Happy sessions everyone,

    O W
  • B MayfieldB Mayfield
    Posts: 2,077
    [quote=Old Wolf]Thanks for this thread BlueStone, I have now polished my Helix and Progasm, but not the necks (thanks again!).

    Not having access (read 'couldn't be arsed, I wanted to get started right away') to more specialised abrasives I went with 2 nail buffers, the multi grade type on a soft polystyrene (styrofoam in the US) block. I removed the coarse nail-edge side before I started. (I didn't want a careless slip to undo all my hard work.) I sliced the finest side with 1/4" of foam from one of the blocks to get around the curves.
    By the time I'd finished ('finished', lol, it's an ongoing project...) I got involuntaries and a half mast hard-on just from handling the Progasm!

    (The strangest thing, with the head of the Progasm being so glans-like I suddenly got an urge to suck on it. So I did. A real deep throat job right down to the t-bar and worked my soft-palate, back of throat and tongue around the head. Oh, well, I've always known I'm bi-sexual. I've just never done anything about it...)

    Wow! What a difference. In use the Progasm now dances around like a belly-dancer on speed and its new responsiveness really drives me wild. I had, actually, given it a rest for a week but since polishing it I alternate it with the Helix during every session. (read nightly, lol)
    Maybe Aneros should offer the gloss finish for a (small!!) premium.

    WRT B Mayfield's observation that the texture is 'designed in' to retain lubricant, all I can say is that it's a good job automotive engineers don't subscribe to the same theory. "Yes Sir, this new (insert brand name here) SUV has specially textured crankshaft journals and shell bearings better to retain lubricant under load..."
    No disrespect BM, I note that you don't seem to subscribe to the theory yourself.


    I haven't removed the K tab from the Progasm, nor will I. Its contact sends shivers, tingles and a charge up my spine and though to my abdomen as soon as I put it in, and is one of the many things that makes a Progasm experience so different from that of a Helix (my only other Aneros). I have removed all traces of the tab that extends above the tab bar of the Progasm. No difference in action but improves the lines no end and makes it look somehow leaner & more 'purposeful'. I have, however, removed the curly handle from the Helix, and I'm glad I did. With an extra gentle push the Helix changes angle inside and squeezes the prostate against the P-tab in a different, electrifying way.

    Cherry-wood polyurethane-polished box? I'd thought more along the lines of a discreet (gunmetal or white? White I think, like half a 12" Apple iBook) snap close case with custom cut-outs like for a photographer's cameras and lenses or a sniper's break-down rifle. ;-) In the meantime I use drawstring sunglasses pouches to keep them protected and clean. They'll suffice 'cos I'm not likely to do the above any time soon.

    Happy sessions everyone,

    O W


    Old Wolf,

    You got it right, I've had some real questions about the concept of the matte surface and lubrication for some time now. Just to recap, the manufacturer's theory is that a smooth surface enables much of the lubrication to be "squeegied" off by the anal sphincter as the device passes into the rectum, leaving much of the lubrication outside rather than in. As the idea goes, a slightly more textured or matte surface allows more to remain.

    I had a conversation about 6 weeks ago now with them about this very issue. What I told them at the time is that IF this was ever true it has been rendered moot by the fact that most Aneros users are prelubricating these days! With prelubrication the "squeegie effect" (whatever it's role was) is no longer a factor. Once inside (with prelube) the smoother the unit is the more responsive it is.

    My understanding is that this matte finish is actually added after the unit is molded, and at some additional cost! I'm trying to get them to consider foregoing this extra step. I think this would provide a real improvement to the product. It should come as no surprise that the design of the Aneros is an evolving process, involving continuing reseach and user feedback as well. Hopefully this will show up in some of the newer devices. Until then, it is fairly easy to make this modification, with a little sanding.

    As an aside, strange as it may sound, when I make a modification like this, it makes the unit a little more special to me, in that it's really becomes a custom device, one that I've had some small part in crafting.

    So shine up your Aneros guys!

    BF Mayfield
  • ScorchScorch
    Posts: 35
    Well, "easy" depends on individual skill and available time plus the cost of finishing materials. I have worked with micro-mesh during my training as an Airframe & Powerplant technician but it is expensive and time consuming and probably over-kill for this purpose.

    I would definitely prefer a gloss finish over matte and I have seen mention of this under other topics as well.

    And, of course, if the next batch can be done in gloss and maybe less expense; I would certainly be interested to know when it will be available. Whether it be the next batch or one unit polished to order for those of us who want it.

    I have done a minor modification to my existing progasm. I found that the K-tab was a little to far aft for my comfort and, being closer to the tip than the P-tab, was actually limiting P-tab pressure.

    Rather than remove the K-tab; I used a heat source on this thermo-set polymer to carefully move the K-tab slightly forward and down so it is now equal with the P-tab.

    Doing any heat processes on these devices can be tricky. I used to use a heat gun which is not a very precise heat source and I always ended up with imperfections and a rough surface that had to be cleaned and refinished.

    This time I tried using a Bunsen burner which worked quite well.

    There is a very close margin of error when working with this type of polymer. At exactly the right temperature it will become clear and easily pliable but at only a slightly higher temperature it will become liquid. And, of course, the hazard of any open flame is actual combustion of the polymer.

    The interesting thing is, after making this modification the matte finish is now gone from that part of the K-tab leaving a glossy finish.

    I wonder if polishing of the entire unit might be achieved with the right application of heat?

    Scorch.

    }:>
  • B MayfieldB Mayfield
    Posts: 2,077
    Scorch,

    You are correct "easy" is a relative term. But I accomplished this in fairly short order by using wet dry 600 grit sand paper that I picked up at Home Depot and 2000 and 3000 grit sand papers which I found at an auto body shop (they sold me a couple of sheets of each). The latter are materials commonly used for sanding scratches from "clear coat" paint. In terms of the time invested, it took me about a half an hour to bring my Eupho up to a nice luster and about an hour to do the same for the Progasm. All and all I probably spent about twelve bucks.

    Granted it required some effort on my part to accomplish this, but there was certainly no special skill needed, and I found this time well spent. Besides, as I stated before I viewed the process as a labor of lust!

    I'm aware that some other users have posted on using the Micro Mesh that you had mentioned, taking it all the way to 12, 000. Personally, I found the 3000 more than adequate and 2000 would have probably been fine by itself....at least for my purposes.

    Just for reference, here's a link for a company that sells sand paper up to 2000 grit at 67 cents per 9 X 5.5" sheet:
    http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supplies/Abrasives,_polishes,_buffers/Micro_Finishing_Papers.html

    They also carry Micro Mesh packs that go up 12,000 for $7.98

    With regard to the topic of Aneros modification through the use of an open flame , what your comments make very clear is that special skill IS required for such endeavors. In the past I modified my MGX and MGX Classic by this method. As you know, all of the previous generation Aneros products were made of a different material (acetal) and it too was very tricky to work with. (I destroyed one of the devices in the process). Frankly, at this point I would strongly advise people against the use of open flame . I just don't think it's safe. For bending and reshaping, a heat gun is far preferable (but even then, a great deal of caution must be observed).

    BF Mayfield

    p.s. on possible changes in the manufacturing process, if something develops with that, I will post on it as soon as I hear about it.
  • ScorchScorch
    Posts: 35
    It actually was pretty easy. I used the bunsen burner to carefully give the progasm a quick flame 'bath'. This resulted in a desirable and interesting effect. But, of course, must be done very carefully to avoid injury or damage to the product.

    The over-all surface now has a shiny gloss with a slight texture. (As if there are small remnants of the matte finish.)

    This only took a couple minutes to accomplish.

    And yes, I strongly aggree with B. Mayfield. Safety is a serious issue and should always be of highest priority!

    You must be confident of what you do with your tools or find somebody who is.

    A bunsen burner is a very specific tool with a highly controllable flame. And should not to be compared to something like the much larger burner of a kitchen range or much higher concentrated temperature of a common propane torch. And should always be used away from combustible surfaces. Plus, with any material of this type, a chemical fire extinguisher should always be at hand.

    Considering the mass and energy content of even just a few ounces of prostate stimulator FUEL that could be released; one should always be aware of a possible run-away combustion process which can result in heavy chemical gas emissions, severe burns, or even a larger fire if not maintained under completely controlled conditions.

    IE: Somebody panics, tries to bat the burning molten polymer/fuel with their hands, resulting in severe burns and spreading of the combustion. So; use your head or you might lose it!

    And, NO, water is NOT a chemical fire extinguisher! It will likely add fuel to the fire and spread it out more.

    Scorch.

    }:>
  • Old WolfOld Wolf
    Posts: 114

    My understanding is that this matte finish is actually added after the unit is molded, and at some additional cost!



    Sob!

    And there was me suggesting a small premium to have them polished 'in house'.

    O W
  • fcotton
    Posts: 25
    I ordered the Stewart McDonald buffing materials and polished my Helix. Am I impressed. Maybe there was a placebo effect, but I was screaming within 5 minutes.

    I am reluctant to use the same treatment on my eupho and progasm. As it is they tend to pop out when I relax my muscles. Any thoughts?
  • anonymous said:

    (this post was edited 2007-04-07 13:12:33)

    ... I can't wait to get the other materials to get a "glass like" finish.



    Hmmm... "glass-like" finish? That gives me an idea. Maybe the Aneros should just be made of glass. There are lots of dildos made of glass. I suppose the thin extensions and tabs might be susceptible to breaking (ouch!). Maybe a material like acrylic which is as smooth as glass but stronger than glass would be a good idea. I think a clear model would be kinda erotic looking too. What do you guys think?

    Does anyone have regular contact with Aneros to pass that idea along?
  • BusterBuster
    Posts: 953
    Hey megabyteme,

    I belive support monitors this forum and will occasionally chime in. I am sure your idea got to the right people.
  • BlueStone said:

    Edit:
    OK, I'm going totally overboard here, but...

    I ordered the "Micro-Mesh Soft Touch Finishing Pads" from the link below - http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supplies/Abrasives,_polishes,_buffers/Micro-Mesh_Soft_Touch_Finishing_Pads.html



    Link has changed, new link http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Sanding_Tools_and_Supplies/Micro-Mesh_Soft_Touch_Finishing_Pads.html
  • alvalv
    Posts: 179
    I polished my Helix tonight using some unconventional materials. Not having fine emery paper or nail buffs I looked around in the household what could be used, I decided to try the stainless steel cleaner/polisher (Spring Inox Cleaner) which contains abrasives which I use to keep the stainless steel kitchenware in tip top appearance. As a polishing cloth I used a peace of jeans material. Ten minutes later the helix was polished and did not take much effort.

    The polishing was done dry, that is no water added, just the paste which dried quickly in the cloth. From an engineering point of view, heat is generated when polishing, and on a microscopic level this heat either melts or softens the surface irregularities which then quickly get carried away or get moulded into a polished surface. When polishing soft thermo-plastics one need not follow the methods of polishing hard materials as metals or gem stones.
  • mikeyg
    Posts: 14
    i just cut the k tab off my pro and its made a huge difference thanks for the advice